This pretty much never came about. I started with the king pin locking pins. I learned these are tapered and need to be tapped out from the threaded side. I removed the nut and lockwasher then put the nut back on until it was flush with the top of the pin. This prevented any mushrooming.. It took some pretty good blows but it was moving. I have been shooting all of the trouble areas since before day 1 with PB Blaster to prepare for this. I think it has helped. Back to the pin ... Once the nut bottomed out I backed the nut off half way, then screwed a bolt in the exposed threads and continued with the hammer. Once I bottomed that out it was moving well enough to remove the nut all together and tap it the rest of the way with out damage.
Once that was done I removed the grease fittings and the top cap (bottom does not get one). If you see the retaining clip on top of yours the cap is missing. A screwdriver with a thin blade takes this off easily. Needle nose pliers and the same screw driver removed the retaining clips. It seemed only one side of the clip would move while squeezing with the needle nose pliers so I had to work the screw driver behind this side and work it up and out.
Next the dust covers.There are two of these per spindle, one top, one bottom. These proved to be a bit more difficult to remove. I found the best way was to drill a small hole in the top cover and screw a self tapping screw into that to help lift it out. The bottom did not seem to work as well. The bit would walk on the king pin once it started through the cap and enlarge the hole. There was nothing for a screw to grab on to. I ended up just letting these come out while driving the king pin out.
I did just that, drove the king pin out with a piece of round stock I had laying around. I started out carefully to make sure I didn't mess up the pin and cause it to bind. It came out easily once the dust cap popped out. Even the bushing came out with ease. I read lots of articles that stated the early models may have to be pressed out but none stated what year that was, other years "float" I guess mine "float" cause this was easy!
The worst thing I ran into(besides the difficulty or the dust covers) was the thrust bearing and shim fell out when the pin cleared them and I was not real sure how they were in there and in what order. Of course I knew where the bearing went just not sure which side was up. I latter learned the shim goes on the opposite side of the bearing. I learned about the bearing on the next spindle but promptly forgot again once I was done HA I am sure I can get all this info online.
Once apart I cleaned all of the parts and bagged them. Then I wire brushed the spindle base and spindle support..
Once this was done I went to work on the cross member with my grinder and wire wheel. I got a good start on that and should be able to finish up tomorrow! I wish I had a sand blaster!
A quick run down of whats left for my benifit ...
Finish cleaning up the cross member
Wire wheel the ...
A arms
Springs
exposed frame rails
The radiator support
And anything else I can get to...
Prime and paint all of the parts as well as the frame sections I can get at.
Install the suspension kit from The Filling Station (once it arrives)
Clean and paint the hubs and backing plates.
Have the idler arm rebuilt and install.
Inspect the steering box and rebuild if needed (I hope not!)
Drive it til it breaks!
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