For those who have not been following along, the pump was wired without any safety measures. In other words the engine could stop and the pump would continue pumping gas to the carburetor. If you turn the switch on it starts to pump. To solve this problem, the common method is to install an oil pressure switch. This switch will activate the pump once the engine oil pressure rises as you turn over the engine to start the car. If your engine stalls and the ignition is on it will not pump gas.
Also the pump was wired without a relay. The basic purpose of any electric relay is to use a lower amp circuit to activate the relay (like closing a switch) to activate a high amp circuit. This isolates the control circuit from the power supply circuit. Using the relay allows your fuel pump to run more efficiently with less stress on the electrical circuit as well as the pump.
Each part came with instructions but neither included the use of the other. I found a diagram online that shows how it's done. I had to tweak it a little for my application and will explain that later.
Here is the site and diagrams I referenced LINK LINK LINK on how to install an electric fuel pump. (link will open in a new window)
Here is the diagram...
NOTE: Be sure and disconnect your battery before you start your installation!
Where the oil pressure switch calls for hook ups to the ignition switch and starter, I have the push button ignition set up in my car, so I just went to those two wires. Basically it's the same thing... ignition and starter. If it were drawn on this diagram it would show the push button circuit rather than the ignition switch.
The large Power wire to the starter where the battery connects. This line should have a circuit breaker inline as a safety precaution. The Summit kit I purchased came with one.
I could not mount my pressure switch right on the port at the back of the intake because the "T" connection I would need (so I could also keep my oil pressure gauge) was shaped in a way it would not clear the intake to screw in. I could not locate another port to use so I installed the "T" and pressure switch up on the firewall. I ran the oil tube up to the "T" on the firewall. I have the pressure switch on the inside of the car poking through enough to screw on the "T". Once I had that I just screwed on my oil pressure gauge line. I think I will probably change this out once I locate another access port on the block.
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| "T" Connection for pressure switch. |
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| Oil Pressure switch |
I moved the fuse box up a bit and corrected it's orientation. Once I had that where I wanted it I installed the relay next to it.
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| The relay you see on the fuse block is for the horn. The one I installed is the black square to the right of the fuse block. |
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| Tidy |
I did not hear the pump when I turned the switch on without starting the car. I started the car up and the switch worked as it should.
Now I need to install kick panels and reroute some wires to the brake switch that run straight down from the steering column.
I put my hood support panel bolts and screws in vinegar to remove the rust. I won't do anything with the support until I have a plan for the radiator fix. I found a radiator shop near my house so I will call tomorrow and see if they can fix the stripped out transmission cooler bung. If they can't I may just order a stand alone cooler and forget about it. That would work fine here in the south.
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