I removed the oil filler cap that , to me, looked like a radiator cap from the valve cover and put in a push in type. It looks much better.
I also routed the temperature sender to hide it better.Before it was going across the front and back to the original gas peddle hole. I ran it down the opposite side (passenger) and went in with the speedometer cable at the hole where the original column shifter was. If I decide to leave them there I will put in a grommet.
I went ahead and replaced the starter and all of the ground straps as well as the positive battery cable. The old cable was good but black. I needed it to be red. LOL It also allowed me to hook the alternator wire up the right way.
The ground strap kit had one 11 inch fat braided cable and 3 smaller ones. I put the big one at the front from the block to the frame. I put a small one on the passenger side at the frame to the firewall and on that same side from a valve cover bolt to the firewall. I will probably use the last one on the other side , frame to fender well. By putting these flat cables in I got rid of the ugly the red cables where causing. If you did not see them in older pictures, a previous owner installed red battery cables as grounds. They were way too long and looked like crap. They won't be missed.
The starter was an easy install and did not require any shims. I was concerned because I could not get to the gear to bring it out and check clearance. The transmission lines are in the way. I actually had to install it by dropping it in from the top.
The car turns over easily now and starts right up. So far so good!
I also took the electric fan off of the front of the radiator. It was like someone put it on as an afterthought. It pulled air through the radiator and would have been useless at highway speeds with the air coming through the grill fighting it. Also they had tilted the radiator forward at the top so it would clear the plate the hod latches to.
I moved the radiator back as close as I could and then installed a Flex Fan. I had to use a one inch spacer to move the blades away from my alternator. This put the fan at about 3/4 to 1 inch from the radiator!
The only down fall in doing this so far is the hood would not close. The top of the radiator hit on the support bracket running across the front underside of the hood. I marked it and removed it to make sure it would close without it. It does. So all I will have to do is cut out a section of the brace and put it back in.. Sweet. I intend to section the bracket so it doesn't look like it was just cut up. We will see how that goes.
My radiator hoses actually reached the new position but I will be replacing them. They are old and soft as well as a bit short. I also want to firm up the mounts for the radiator. I put it back like it was with bolts but it really needs more support. I did manage to lower it about an inch which gave me a little more room under the hood.
Now the bad...
One of the transmission lines was stripped at the bottom of the radiator. I feel like there was an issue before I ever touched it. I hardly tightened the lines at all and they would just not firm up. Of course when I started the car fluid spewed all over. At least I got to make sure the fan was going to clear everything. So I will either have to find a radiator repair shop or replace the whole thing. I may go the later route. This radiator has some damage to the cooling fins and I would not mind finding one with a side fill to give more clearance. I wont cut the hood brace until I figure out the radiator deal. For now the car wont be going anywhere. :o(
In the meantime I also got the stuff to straighten out my fuel pump. I picked up a relay as well as an oil pressure switch so it will shut down when the engine stops. This is a must for safety. If you had an accident and the gas kept pumping it could end in disaster! I had to get a T fitting too so I could still have my oil pressure gauge connected. I hope everything fits!. I will probably knock this out tomorrow.
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