Maybe the coil was going bad causing the car to run erratically? Well it was definitely no good now HA! I replaced the coil & tested the electronic ignition module via a Mallory youtube video.
It tested fine. I also replaced the cap, rotor, and the plugs. I ordered plug wires as well but they would not fit at the cap. :(
The car still ran bad and was getting worse. I even purchased a timing light <<<LINK, and reset the timing.
Here is one source I used for setting the timing. I also used the instructions that came with the light.
This did not help ... still ran bad.
The main thing I did to the car that would affect how it runs is the fuel pump change. Not only did I add in a relay, but also an oil pressure switch. The carb was getting way too much gas.
My opinion was the relay upped the juice causing more pressure or the oil pressure was causing a malfunction in the pressure switch.
After research, most of the information I read suggested a fuel pressure regulator with an electric pump. Also I would need a gauge to see what the pressure was. I went with this Summit setup that came with the gauge. LINK
The regulator still needs to be secured wit ha bracket but the location is ideal for me. It came in with on inlet and two outlets. I just capped the extra outlet. Mostly it is hidden under the air filter. Pressure read 4.5 so I left it as is. I think I am going to see if I can raise it to 5 or 5.5 and see how it does. Here is a link to the regulator I used .... REGULATOR
Crossing my fingers.... nope, it is still getting too much gas! To check the oil pressure switch/relay combo I bypassed it via another on off switch by the fuse block so I could control direct power to the pump via the fuse block while the car was running. I finally got it started and while it was running bad, I hit the switch to turn off the pump. The engine smoothed right out and ran well until the carb emptied out. As it started to stumble I turned the pump back on and it picked back up and again started running bad.
I also put an end on the relay wire. So I could swap them out and test function with the oil pressure switch back inline. In the photo above the yellow wire just hanging is the straight connection. The purple puts the oil pressure switch back in play. Since I have determined the pressure switch is working properly I will remove this temporary switch. I may keep it in the glove compartment in the event the pressure switch or relay ever fail and I need an emergency start!
It had to be something in the carb. I posted on ChevyTalk and got some more good information on possible causes and determined it most likely wasn't something I could or wanted to try and adjust out. As it was I was dumping way too much gas into the intake, contaminating the oil, risking damage to the engine. You can read all about it with the link above. Lot's of thanks to those extremely knowledgeable guys! There are also a ton of helpful links to learn all about carbs.
I took the easy route and ordered a new carb from Summit. I stuck with the 4160... here is the link to the one I purchased, Holley 4160 600cfm. As usual with Summit, it arrived the next day and the swap out was pretty straight forward. I did have some vacuum questions since the new carb was set up slightly different from the old one. Again ChevyTalk helped out. This time I proceeded without the answers because I knew it would either run or have issue with vacuum... it ran! I did learn some more by the replies on the thread though and that is always good. Here is a link to the topic.... CHEVYTALK
If you visited this title before today you just saw two pictures.....
I also had questions about the Street Dominator intake and the differences between square vs Spread bores .... my intake allowed me to use either. The previous installer had a stack of three different gaskets I replaced (recommendation from CT member with a thick one to help dissipate heat. Check it out .... Elderbrock
Her is a shot of the intake and the bottom of the old carb.
I went ahead and ordered a rebuild kit HERE for the old carb and will tear into it one day when I am bored. I look forward to finding he cause of my problems.
I still ahve to do a few adjustments and I think I have a small leak at the regulator but it seems to be running good. Definately better than it was. I did change the oil before starting it up. I do not know what engine I have yet so I crawled under and got the number for the filter before heading to the store.
Purolator L20049 which cross referenced over to a FRAM PH30 ... the only one of the crossovers, out of many, I could find. I prefer Mobile One or Bosch so I will hunt those down for the next change.
Ear candy.... AKA It's alive!
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